Flying Solo

BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL BY PAUL

Since Thursday 22^nd May I have been flying solo and holding the flag high by myself.  It so far hasn't been as bad as I thought.  Sure, it sometimes can be lonely sitting here in my "simple" (single) room in the middle of nowhere by myself or having dinner by myself 2 nights in a row.  But really it hasn't been that bad.  I have been very lucky that there were always very friendly locals there to help me whenever I need help.  Most of them have been tremendously interested in where I am from, what I am doing in Peru and whether I liked the country etc. 

Today I went to visit the ruins in Tucume by myself.  It was a bit of a mission even to just get there.  The place to catch the combi-van that was listed in the guidebook did not appear to be the spot.  Well, an empty van did pull over with Tucume written on the dashboard and asked me where I was going.  After I told him, he offered to take me direct there for 30 soles (AU$12).  I told him that he must be crazy as the guide book said it should cost around $0.50 back in 2007.  He then reduced the price to 20 soles (AU$8).  I told him that I was happy to pay 8 soles maximum.  Off he went. 

I was fortunate to ask a fruit seller and a policeman nearby as to where I could catch the real combi from.  The policeman was kind enough to walk me round the corner to the combi terminal where I caught the combi for 2 soles (Au$0.40).   

The conductor on the van found out that I was a tourist and dropped me off as close to the ruins as he could.  I walked 15 minutes through what it felt like a war zone as there were so much roadwork and construction in the town to get to the ruins. 

It was very interesting as the ruins were in the desert where there were little trees, but along the way everything was green.  I walked past corn fields, farms and other fields filled with plants and vegetables.  It was quite a pretty walk despite the soaring temperature. 

The book described the site as one of the most important archaeological sites in Peru.  It was 400 years old than Machu Picchu.  There was also a museum on site, although I had no idea what they tried to display at the museum.  There were a few ceramics and a couple of cartoons and models, but I wasn't sure of their purposes to be exact. 

The archaeological site was very, very big.  I was there for about 3 hours, although I spent an hour in the shade trying to take a nap as it was just so hot.  There were supposed to be 26 major pyramids and other temples, cemeteries etc.  I read the display signs in front of these "pyramids".  But unfortunately I still couldn't identify which ones were they.  They actually looked like massive above-the-ground ant nests in the desert.  But like 50 metres high.  It was just bizarre.  I guess I was expecting Egyptian style pyramids. 

As I got lost, I also stumbled into one of the biggest pyramids where excavation work was still being undertaken.  It was amazing to see how the archaeologists and the workers used brushes to brush out all the dirt from the ruins.  It would take them years and years of work to uncover anything at the rate they were going. 

I snapped a few pictures before I got told that I wasn't allowed to be there.  The guy in charge actually came out and shook my hand and said I was lucky to be there and spent a few minutes talking to me and explained to me about the site they were working on etc.  It definitely was a privilege to be there as I have never seen people working on ruins before. 

On the way back down from the excavation site, I bumped into some other workers carrying supplies to the archaeologists on the top who also stopped and had a friendly chat with me.  It was such a shame that I could not understand them much but I gathered that they were very nice and interested in me and what I was doing etc.  They also wanted photos with me. 

I think travelling solo is a lot more enjoyable and fun when you meet friendly local people.  People who are genuinely interested in you despite the language barrier etc. 

Chiclayo is not a very interesting city so far.  I am really here for the ruins anyway.  Tomorrow I am going to see the Bruning Archaeological museum and the Museo de las Tumbas Reales de Sipan where the Lord of Sipan was displayed.  Apparently they have the complete treasures from the Lord of Sipan's tomb which is almost 2,000 years old. 

Before Chiclayo, I was in Trujillo/Huanchaco about 10 hours bus ride north of Lima.  Trujillo, again, was another boring town.  And again, there were some ruins there which I visited.  They were Chan Chan and Huacas de la Luna.  I did a tour here just because it was actually cheaper than doing it by myself.  Between the 2 places, we were taken to a restaurant where they had traditional Peruvian dancing which was fantastic.   

The ruins were also quite good.  It made all the difference with an English speaking guide though.  Otherwise, they would just look like piles of clay walls to me again like Sacsayhuaman in Cusco. 

I felt like I was a little celebrity when a group of local university girls kept taking photos of me while I was on the tour.  It was strange especially since I had my hiking hat and hiking pants on and looked almost like Steve Irwin again.  They then insisted that they take photos with me.  As they spoke to me in Spanish, I thought they wanted me to take photos of them (which was usually the case).  But then they gave their cameras to my tour guide and placed me in the centre among 6 girls.  My guide said something to them but they just insisted in doing the photo shoots.  I was a little embarrassed by it, especially in front of the people in my tour.  Strange, I know.  I am usually on the side waiting for people to stop taking photos with Naomi.   

But then some other girl from Lima later also insisted on taking photo with me.  I think it must have been my outfit.  For all the guys out there, it might not be bad to be daggy in front of some girls! 

I stayed in Huanchaco which was a surfing town.  I should have learned how to surf there because it was only 30 soles (AU$12) for 3 hours.  But the water was cold and there were many rocks too in the water.  Maybe I will wait until I get further north. 

I stayed in a dorm in a nice hostel 2 blocks from the beach.  I met a few very nice people there whom I hung out with and had dinner/drinks with etc.  It was surprising how many of them were Americans.  I don't think I have met that many Americans in one hostel in South America yet.